Monday 12 September 2011

Lokrum Island: Sea, Sun and....Peacocks?

If, while visiting the "Pearl of the Adriatic", otherwise known as Dubrovnik, you find yourself wanting a little time away from the city, I would certainly suggest a quick sojourn off to lovely, little Lokrum Island. The island, which was once the holiday home of Austrian Archduke Maximillian, and is also rumored to be the site where Richard the Lionheart was shipwrecked during his return from the crusades, now serves as a nature and wildlife preserve.

First of all, it is extremely affordable to get to, compared to the other "island tours" and "fish picnics" on offer. Round trip cost runs about $9. Ferries leave roughly every thirty minutes from the main marina in Old Town. After a fifteen minute ferry ride, you will find yourself  in the little bay of Lokrum.

There are actually quite a few options for how to entertain yourself on the island. I will only list the highlights, but there are things such as the Black Oak Forest, a deserted Benedictine monastery, a former Ranger House on the island, and a nudist beach in the southeast corner, if that tickles your fancy. 

BOTANICAL GARDEN
There is a very interesting Botanical Garden, on the island that houses imported plants from places such as Australia, New Zealand, Mexico, & California. The garden was originally founded to study how well plants from these regions would do in a Mediterranean climate. There are huge cacti, beautiful old trees, and all sorts of interesting bushes and shrubs. It's not exactly a day-filler, but it does make for a pleasant half-hour stroll.

THE DEAD SEA
There is a gorgeous "Dead Sea" (aka high salt density) lagoon on the island. It really does look like a scene from Blue Lagoon as approach it. It has a few little areas of pebble beach surrounding it, and is actually a very refreshing swim. The first little bit that you walk out on is a bit slippery FYI, so watch your step. There is a small cliff on the edge (about 35-40 feet up) that you can do some cliff diving from if you feel up to it....the pool is plenty deep on that side. As a word of advice, walk over to the showers after getting out as the salt does tend to dry on you after a little while. There is also a little bar/cafe with lounge seats overlooking it. I didn't personally frequent it, but it looked nice enough, other than the bad techno music. That last part is more Croatia as a whole, than this little bar, however.

FORT ROYALE
There is an old fort on the high point of the island (about 91 meters high) that is supposed to have some beautiful views back to Dubrovnik, as well as out to sea. I say "supposed to" because the trail was actually closed when I was there. Saved the wife a bit of a hike though, which I guess probably saved me a bit of a headache, so.......In case you are planning a trek up the hill, just keep in mind that may be closed if it is really dry and there is the possibility of a forest fire.

PEACOCKS
Peacocks. That's right peacocks. The island is inhabited by HUNDREDS of peacocks. They are beautiful, plentiful, and completely unconcerned by your presence on their island. My wife woke from a little seaside nap to literally be having a staring contest with one hovering over her. It really is quite a magical little addition to the island. They will eat right from your hand if you try.

As a few words of advice, bring a picnic. There are some cafes/bars on the island, but, to put it nicely, they look like they do better pouring beers than cooking if you follow my drift. Just stop BEFORE you get to Old Town (Old Town grocery prices are a touch ridiculous, and the fruit/veg market there is a bit weak) and pick up some supplies. We went with salami, cheese, crackers, fruit, water, and yes beer. They will let you bring anything as far as I know. The other piece of advice would be to swim in the bay that they bring you to. The "beach" on the other side of the island, while gorgeous (it looks out to the open ocean), is brutal to walk on. The rocks are like little daggers trying to turn your feet into chum, and the water is rougher, so it makes it harder to snorkel, etc. The bay on the land side has a lot smoother rock to sit/walk on, much easier ways into the ocean, and offers some great spots for fish-watching.

All in all, it is a lovely way to spend a day and a great change of pace compared to the hectic nature of the city itself.